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Propogating Lavender

Do you ever wonder if propogating lavender is hard? Actually, it's quite easy. Many people ask where they can purchase lavender seed, not realizing that the best and easiest way to start new lavender plants is to take cuttings from existing plants. There are 3 main reasons:

1) Since most lavenders are hardy, taking cuttings from a "Mother" plant will not harm it in any way, and if done properly the cutting will root and grow quickly.

2) Propogating lavender by planting cuttings is the best way to keep the variety pure. If multiple types of lavender are in an area, natural hybridization can occur and the seeds will produce a different variety from the mother plant.

3) Lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia) are some of the most popular lavenders due to their hardiness and fragrance. They are hybrids of English Lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) and Spike Lavenders (Lavandula latifolia) and they are sterile. The only way to propogate these varieties is to plant cuttings.

When to Propogate - Cuttings can be taken any time the plant is actively growing. The best time is in the early spring before the plant has started to bloom, or in late summer after the blooms have been harvested.

Get Ready - Before taking any cuttings, make sure you have prepared your soil, purchased Root Stimulator, have water handy, and you have a good place to keep your baby plant for the first 6 weeks of its life.

• Soil - Mix about 3 parts peat moss with 1 part sand and/or vermiculite. Don't use commercial compost as it can contain wood chips that will grow fungus that will damage your new plant. The key to this mixture is that it drains well and isn't clay soil. Dampen the mixture and fill a small pot or plastic cup with drain holes in the bottom. Poke a small hole approximately 1.5 - 2 inches (3.8 - 5 cm) into the soil (a small craft stick works well) where you will plant your cutting.

Lavender Potting Soil Mixture

• Root Stimulator - SHHHHH, this is the secret to successfully propogating lavender. This is a hormone based liquid that is sold in garden centers, nurseries and greenhouse supply stores. It is a little expensive, but it is sold as a concentrate and a small bottle will go a very long way. Follow the directions on the label for dilution.

• Environment - During the first 6 weeks your new plant will require protection from excessive sun, wind and other harsh weather. While it can tolerate a little direct sun, too much will cause it to wilt. A bright window with limited direct sun will be just right.

Choose Your "Mother" - The Mother plant you choose for propogating lavender should be mature enough to have some branches of new growth to spare. It doesn't have to be a fully mature plant, but should at least be in its second year of growth.

Choose Your "Baby" - Pick a soft branch from the side of the plant about 3"-5" long. If it's too short you will end up with too little of the cutting in the ground or above ground. If it's too long it will struggle to support itself while the roots are being established. Be sure that the entire cutting is from the soft portion of the branch, not the woody older growth.

Taking a Cutting from a Lavender Plant

Strip and Dip - Strip the bottom pair of leaves (or 2 pairs if the cutting is on the longer side) being careful to strip off a little of the "skin" along with the leaves. Dip the bottom half of the cutting in the root stimulator for about 7 seconds.

Stripping Lavender Cutting for Planting

Plant It - Place the cutting in the hole in the soil up to the bottom set of leaves. Press the soil around the cutting firmly enough to support it well, but don't pack it too tight. Water it well.

Watering - Your plants will need to be watered daily for the first 1 - 2 weeks, then every few days depending on the heat and humidity of the environment. Water when the soil is dry but before the plant begins to show signs of stress.

Transplanting - After about 6 weeks the roots of the plant should be well developed and ready for transplanting. Propogating Lavender can be done by transplanting into a larger pot or outdoors if there is still enough warm weather to allow the plant to get established before autumn. If planting outdoors, you may want to prepare your plants for the transition by placing them outside for a few hours each day for a couple of weeks before transplanting, increasing the time each day.

• Soil should be a sandy loam that drains well. If planting outdoors and the native soil does not drain well, mix sand and peat moss or compost with your soil. Build up a small hill of your mixed soil in which to place your plant. Dig a hole in the soil and place about a teaspoon of bone meal as fertilizer in the bottom. If transplanting into a larger pot, follow the guidelines above.

• Remove the plant from the pot and break up the potting soil from around the roots. Soak the roots in Root Stimulator as above and plant in your soil mixture. Water well.

• Make sure the location gets plenty of sun and not too much water. Most lavenders are very hardy and will tolerate a variety of conditions except being routinely over-watered.

When done properly, propogating lavender is easy and quite fun. While a cutting planted in the spring won't likely bloom the first year, the second and subsequent years should produce a crop of beautiful fragrant flowers.

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